08 Mar, 2007
A Busy Week

9pm. The restaurant is about two thirds full tonite, and we are now sufficently underway, and I have enough senior staff on, that my presence is no longer required, so I have retreated to the sanctity of the house and the dogs ( my daughters are out on a club race), and thought I'd write a blog, while I have some time to spare. Its been a big week, becos we've done 4 cookschools over the past 6 days, and had the Wine and Food Festival last Saturday, and are now gearing up for a large outcatering wedding this coming Saturday. All of that activity takes place in addition too, and on top of the normal day to day processes of the restaurant. The last couple of nites at the restaurant have been a bit quieter which has meant I haven't been required to work quite as hard on the floor as I maybe otherwise would have - and that is a reality that I have gratefully recieved. Especially in light of the fact that cookschools mean that I'm over there at 9am in the morning to have everything ready to go before the first attendees arrive. Rick starts even earlier than that, to get the ingredients assembled, and we try and sneak in a cup of coffee a deux, while we can, becos there tends to be little time for personal chat after that.

The photo below is of the early stages of the Wine and Food Festival, when we were getting the marqee set up. The day is a logistical nightmare. We are one of about 7 food outlets, catering to about 2500 people - but that number is an unknown becos  the turnout is completely weather dependant.  We had a large menu, and a large number of staff, becos at an event like that the only way you can make a profit is to turn over a large volume. You can't charge alot for each individual item - you have to rely on economies of scale. And there is a point in the afternoon, when people get beyond eating, and just want to chill out and listen to the music, so the window of opportunity to make it, is quite small,  and you have to go hard. Of 5 main course options you can never correctly predict what will be the big sellers. What works one year, doesn't necessarily do so the next

so there are no guarantees. Its an interesting exercise, to say the least!

The wedding this weekend, by contrast is much more structured - set fingerfood, set entree, a choice of 2 mains, and set dessert for 100 people. The kitchen however, will be set up in a garage,  and there are all sorts of variables that come in to play - like the photographer always, but always. taking longer then they say they will, and the speeches never conforming to a preset time schedule.  The wedding is in our clients garden, in a large marquee - which creates some interesting obstacles when the weather decides to be inclement. I never fret about that in advance though, becos its the one thing, you can not control in any way, so it always seems like a futile exercise.

I enjoy weddings. I enjoy making a positive contribution to someones special day - it is a priviledge in many ways.

We are about half of the way thru this cookschool series - and its going well. The food very much represents the best of what is available at this time of year - tomatoes, melons from Gisborne, apricots and peaches from Central Otago, walnut oil from Christchurch and the most magnificent butter beans from Spain, that we get via Sabato who import them. It all comes together into a selection of lovely dishes that we encourage people to eat gradually over time, rather than piling it all onto their plate at once. People take that admonishment to heart - and the lunches after the class have segued into long leisurely affairs, which have being entirely the effect we were hoping to create.  Bringing back happy memories of our experiences in Tuscany a few years ago.

Selection of breads with galilee basil cheese, Evansdale farmhouse brie and melon and proscuitto

Poached chicken breast on whitebean and vegetable stew with walnut sauce

Provencal tomatoes baked with red wine vinegar and thyme

Red pepper spaghetti

Apricot tart with cream cheese pastry

Rose with peaches

Already I have been on the recieving end of much anecdoctal comment - including what I thought was the delightful story from a lady who lives in Maine, that lobsters used to be so common in the harbour there, that prison officials had to promise not to feed the prisoners lobster more than 3 meals a week. A concept that seems somewhat alien to our reality. At the class on Sunday I sat next to an elderly German lady, who told me about the pigs her family used to raise every year , during the war- the slaughter of which was cause for celebration, becos of the bounty of food that it represented.  Our conversation then moved onto what had happened to her father, a baker, during the war - and she became so much more that just another face to me - she was a person, with an extraordinary personal story to tell.  How can you not value those sorts of insights?We'd mentioned our pigs during the class and their aversion to onions - and that had led to a discussion about charcuterie. The food we do in each class is exactly the same, but the discussion that surrounds it always moves in unique and interesting directions, becos of the questions people ask, or becos of the comments that people contribute. I can go over to set up in the morning feeling a bit dispirited, and without exception I return to the house after the class, feeling enthusiatic and inspired.

We consider ourselves to be very lucky.


08 Mar, 2007
The Art of Eating

 We had a cookschool this morning, and I'm now over at my desk sorting a few things before I head out the door to check up on a marquee that went up yesterday, at a clients property for a wedding, we're catering there tomorrow. Just like to have a look see, and make sure that the entree AND the main course plates have all been delivered - that sort of thing.. Nothing quite induces stress then the discovery 30 mins before you're about to plate up 100 mains, that you don't have any plates to put them on. It happened to us once- which is why I now take the time out to check in advance..

But I digress..

One of things I've done here at my desk  is photocopy off an article for some c/school attendees who asked for information on making red wine vinegar. This article came out of an earlier edition of 'The Art of Eating" an erudite food periodical that I suscribe too, and whose indepth articles I love reading. So many food magazines now are glossy and full of ads, but leave you feeling dissatisfied. This is a complete contrast -  no advertising, relatively few articles, but each one discussed in depth, with the kind of detail that I find eminently satisfying. For those interested in background information about food and wine,  rather than just the latest trendy recipe ideas,I would heartily recommend it

www.ArtofEating.com

or, PO Box 242, Peacham, Vermont 05862, USA.

We sell alot of our wines by the glass at the restaurant, and as a result end up with reasonable amounts of unsaleable wine at the end of the week. It gives me immense satisfaction to convert that wine to vinegar ( not an arduous process!) which we can then use in our cooking. Not only is it using up something that would otherwise be thrown away, but its also saving  on the balsamic vinegar that we used to buy in reasonably substantial quantities. Bought in the mistaken belief that it really was balsamic vinegar - but what I have discovered belatedly ( and probably thru an article in Art of Eating), is that we don't get to see true balsamic becos its made in tiny amounts and aged over decades. What we buy is actually red wine vinegar, that can be made commercially much quicker, and has some must from balsamic added to enrich it.

Having said that - some importers, Sabato and Simon Gault that I know of, are bringing in the authentic article, and you will pay appreciable amounts of money to purchase it. Literally, hundreds of dollars a bottle. Another option is to buy from Unison Vineyards in the Hawkes Bay - who as far as I am aware are the only people making the real mccoy from scratch in NZ. Its beautiful - and costs about $40.00 a bottle I think.

The edition of Art of Eating that has the vinegar article is No 68. ( You can order back copies when you subscribe), or if you'd like a copy of the article let me know, as the title of the article says:'The best red-wine vinegar you're likely to find is the one you make yourself"