Amazon has been a major influence on me. I buy a number of books thru its website every month - partly becos they are books I want and go looking for, and sometimes becos Amazon sends me an alert about a book that they think I might be interested in, based on my previous purchasing history.
That means that we have an extensive library, which I fail to see as a bad thing. A source of inspiration is never far away, and I like that.
It was an email from them that advised me that a biography on Alice Waters, and her important restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California had just been released. Seeing as how we had been heavily influenced by the cookbooks from that restaurant, I decided that that was a must read, and promptly ordered it ,as you do. The title: Alice Waters and Chez Panisse - the romantic, impractical, often eccentric, ultimately brillant making of a food revolution. By Thomas Mc Namee.
It made for fascinating reading. The restaurant opened in 1971, and has occupied a seminal place in restaurant accolades ever since. This book looks behind what has made it tick, what has driven the principal personality involved, namely Alice Waters. Ive read other books that allude to the restaurant, like Jeremiah Towers distinctly egocentric take in' California Dish', but this was the first opportunity to get to grips with what it was that drove the reasons for the restaurant in the first place, and that has seen it survive thru a somewhat turbulent history.
Needless to say I found it fascinating. Longeivety in the restaurant industry in Anglo Saxon countries is not the norm, so Chez Panisse has become famous as much for the fact that it is still there, as for all the other precedents that it has set, and I was intrigued by the wheres and whyfores. They'd try to sell it a couple of times,but had never managed to do so, and it continues on as an icon of focusing on the very best of ingredients.
When we were in Venice 3 years ago, I wanted to go to Harrys Bar, becos the mystic of the place had always intrigued me. We peered into the interior but didn't venture in, becos it was one of those places where I didn't feel wealthy enough or skinny enough to go in. ( I get intimidated like that sometimes!) And that made me curious - becos what I had read about Harrys Bar was that it had started off as very much a neighbourhood venue where the locals came on a regular basis, to eat the same thing day in and day out. Chez Panisse was the same. Intended as a local for people to come and relax. But it gained a form of noteriety that lifted it above just the locals and made it a destination for 'foodies'- just as has also happened with Harrys Bar. And what had made it special ceased to be what it was, becos of the constant flood of curious tourists, who arrive with an attitiude of ' ok, so I hear that you're supposed to be good, so prove it too me!"I find that curious. Becos that constant flow of people who are there, purely becos they're heard they should be, provide an income stream to the restaurant, that must be very nice, but at the same time it undermines what it is that made the restaurant special in the first place.
Their focus when they first opened was heavily influenced by the French, and by people like Richard Olney, who were living and writing in France at the time. Then when Paul Bertolli started cooking there as head chef, the pendulum started swinging towards Italy - with the food becoming more representative of the cooking in that country.
I have just coincidently finished reading Paul Bertollis book'Cooking by Hand" a book hes written based on his experiences in the restaurant he runs on his own, now that he's left Chez Panisse, called Olivetto. A densely written but absolutely captivating treatise on the importance of good ingredients, and going back to simple, expressive styles of cooking. We are about to have our pigs killed, and are therefore reading up on charcuterie, which is why I'd turned to Pauls book, becos he has a substantial chapter on that subject, and is recognised as an expert in the field.
Most of Alice Waters energies these days are expended in food areas outside of the restaurant - but what she has created is proof that the principals of serving good food from the very best local ingredients that can be sourced, will find a willing and receptive market, even somewhere like America where the trends tend to be constantly on whatever is new and therefore fashionable.
I like that notion of consistency, and not needing to titivate purely for the sake of titivation. Rather creating something that tastes good, becos its been made from quality ingredients, with care and attention. That is a concept I can most defintily adhere too.
So its made me drag out all the old Chez Panisse cookbooks to have another read thru - although 2 of them had their covers destroyed by our Doberman years ago, when we left him at home on his own for too long. Quite why he selected the only 2 Chez Panisse books ( which weren't side by side in the book case) that we owned at that stage, and destroyed their covers, is something I've never been able to figure.
Its all interesting, and all gist for the mill, as I write in my diary quite often! I remember the first time I read one of Nico Ladenis' books back in the dark early days of us being at Somerset, when we were really questioning what we were doing and why. I remember that sense of relief that I had on reading that even a top restaurant in the UK has customers who come and question and don't like what is on offer. I remember that it made me feel better, that some of the negative crap that we'd had to deal with here, was not actually unique to us, but was in fact something experienced by restaurants everywhere. Maybe thats part of what I've liked about this book - even though I've drawn few parellels with it , there is still stuff that I can identify with and which is unique to the hospitality industry.
She has a missionary zeal that I admire and respect, but have no desire to emulate. My focus in much more on my immediate surroundings, be that in terms of people, and environment. But then I've never been motivated by a desire to rush out and change other people. I prefer to concentrate on that which is close to me.
We do however need the prophets, and those who are prepared to put the time and the personal energy into creating change on a grand scale, and I have nothing but respect for those who opt for that road.
Read the book. Its fascinating!