Our Christmas break is nearing an end, and tomorrow I will have to bestir myself and start thinking about being nice to people again. Over the few days we've had off, we haven't exactly been hermits, but there has been a fair amount of quiet retreat go on, where we've pottered around the property,taken the dogs for lots of walks, and had fun in the kitchen. I've even espyed my husband sitting still for longish periods of time, reading Steve Gurneys book 'Lucky Legs', which we bought for Hannah, on his adventure racing career. Rick doesn't do sitting still, so the book must be good!

I've cleared the restaurant answerphone most mornings and there has been a refreshing lack of the abusive messages that have been left in previous years, when people react vocally with outraged indignation to my recording that we are having a Christmas break. Apparently, in some peoples worlds, such a perception is untenable. Why on earth would we? I had a customer deposit himself next to me at a woolshed party we went to last weekend, and demand to know exactly that. He'd called in on Christmas Eve for a voucher and we were closed, and why would we close 'over what is the busiest time of the year'. I didn't attempt to explain that in fact he was wrong - the period between Christmas and New Year is not our busiest.  We could be full for Christmas Day many times over if we were so inclined, but the other days tend to be slower for our style of dining, becos people are preoccupied with the beach and  friends and BBQs. We start getting busy in the next week, when peoples holidays are coming to an end, and they maybe want to go out for a special meal, or they have someone they want to take out. And we will be open  and ready and willing for all of those bookings!
But the reality really, is that we close becos we can, and becos we think that we should. Christmas after all,  I thought, was about family, and taking time to appreciate and enjoy those you love - and I've come to believe that that applys to those of us in hospitality too. There is an assumption of hospitality being 24/7, which has grown over the last 20 years or so - people almost see it as their god given right, to go out to an eatery when it suits them, and that the establishment would possibly have another agenda that puts their staffs wellbeing ahead of the customers right to be fed, just blows some people away. They simply don't get it. I used to react defensively to people, but I've learnt to just take it in my stride now, and get on with it. One of the great lessons in life that it is good to embrace, is that regardless of how hard you try, you will never please all the people all the time, so you might as well aim for a middle ground and stay true to what feels right for you.

The other reason we went over to the restaurant was to feed the bread starter. We have had the same starter going for years now, and if it isn't fed daily it will die, and we'd have to start all over again, which would be a shame, becos one of the things that gives our bread its flavour is the age in that starter. The guys in the kitchen make bread every day - bread that we've become known for, and get many many requests for, so they're now not allowed to vary the recipe even if they wanted. Its a flat bread, a recipe we got out of Dan Lepards " The Handmade Loaf', one of the many books I bought on artisinal breadmaking back  a few years ago, when bread making was gaining a resurgence in popularity, worldwide, and people were going back to the basic concepts.

To make the loafs at the restaurant, approx 200gm of the starter is taken off per loaf, and to that we add flour, water and olive oil, and a little bit of additional yeast. That dough is gently mixed and then left to rise over a long period, shaped and left to rise some more, before its baked. The dough is sloppy and quite unlike any bread mix I've worked with in the past - and the process of shaping and rising it, fits in well with the kitchen prep, becos while it takes a long while for the bread to be ready for the oven, each successive need for attention is short, and the guys do it in amongst all their other prep. One will stop, go over and knock down the dough, shape it on the trays, cover it, and then carry on with what else they were doing. The starter ( or poolish), meantime, has has flour and water added to it - its food source, that keeps it alive, and is left to bubble away happily on its own until the next day. If it didn't get that daily dosage of flour it would run out of nutrients and die, literally. You can tell its alive becos its frothy and bubbly.

Rick bought me back some starter on the first day of the holiday, becos I thought it would be a good idea to make some fresh bread, as you do! I started in before I got his instructions on proportions on flour and water though, and stuffed up my first attempt, overdoing the amount of flour. Being the accomodating soul that he is, he went and got me some more, and this time wrote out the proportions, which in typical Rick style were still short one or 2 crucial details, but my next attempt was very successful. Almost as good as the restaurant bread in fact! What however delighted me, was his suggestion that I not throw away the inital bad effort, but instead use it to create my own poolish - which I have subsequently done, feeding it each day, and taking of some each day to make all manner of bread.

 Unlike at the restaurant, I'm not constrained by customer expectations and I've had a ball, using the starter in all sorts of ways. Reading A.A. Gills book 'Breakfast at The Wolseley", I realised that their croissant recipe started with a poolish, so away I went, and made the best croissants I've ever attempted. They weren't quite as good as the ones that Wendy and I used to go and get from the gorgeous little village bakery during our time at Le Bourdil Blanc, in France, but they were markedly better than anything I'd tried before. And not least becos none of the butter ran out onto the tray during baking. Usually when I make croissants I end up with half the butter content, melted and burnt on the oven tray.
I've also made grissini and loaves stuffed with feta and mascapone; then a loaf stuffed with the cheese and also ham; bread with walnuts and raisins soaked in rum; and buns with walnuts and raisins. The method has varied slightly with each as I play around with what gets treated like the restaurant bread, and hardly handled at all, and what needs to be kneaded for a smoother texture. Its been fun! Today, however I've run out of steam, and simply fed the starter without taking any off. Possible becos I've eaten so much bread over the last few days that I'm stuffed!

Its interesting though. One of the conversation threads in the Christmas cookschool series was on bread. Rick had suggested melba toast to go with the fingerfood idea. We were conscious that at Christmas, the bakeries are shut ( this pesky habit of selfemployed people wanting some time off too!), and I made the comment that I've reached a point in my life where I have become a bread snob, and mass produced bread just doesn't do it for me. I find the texture unsatisfying - too airy and cottonwooly, and I seem to have real problems digesting it. So I only eat Flaveur bread,  or our bread. Good bread however has no preservatives in it to keep it soft - it is bread you eat the day its made, or you toast it the next day. Hence Ricks idea of melba toast. Buy good bread, freeze it if need be, and then a couple of days before you need it, slice it thinly and toast it dry in the oven until all the water has evaporated, and it will stay crunchy in an air tight tin. Mum used to do something similar with marmite and cheese - mousetraps I think they were called.

A number of people during the series also commented that they had family members who'd been diagnosed with gluten issues but who could eat the Flaveur bread without any dire sideeffects. It wouldn't take much to convince me that bread that is made from organic sources of wheat, and which is risen over long time frames, and which has absolutely no artificial additives, is going to be better for you. Its a no brainer really. And apart from anything else, it just tastes so much better!

A basket of Flaveur bread which we buy in on a Wednesd and Friday for cookschools.

We get a huge amount of comment in the restaurant about our bread - its served with butter that we make ourselves, and olive oil from Ellsgrove. We've given out the recipe many times, and I can sense a bread class coming on, during which we give everyone some or our starter, so that they can have their own poolish in their own kitchen!

What will be a test of that idea, will be to see how long my poolish survives, once I revert to normal working life.Hmm...

I always find books like this somewhat fascinating, becos even though I think I am reasonably savy about the restaurant world, I have to concede there are a lot of fundamental differences between what we do here in Tauranga, New Zealand, and what happens day to day in one of New Yorks top restaurants, Le Bernardin.

Turnover to start with - I calculate on what they say about actual food costs, that their annual turnover is in the vicinity of $US18 -25m. That is significantly more than ours. They have 40 chefs for 100 covers, but typically of the fashionable American restaurants, they do more than one seating, and will do 200-250 covers in a service. Most of the kitchen staff are there to do 'stages' ie for a short time frame to learn as much as they can, and to add another famous name to their resume. They work atrociously long hours and are paid a pittance, but they do it for what they learn.

Everything about the restaurant is substantial - monthly flower bills are $12,000 for godsakes! - and I guess to stay at the top in a fiercely competitive environment, such things matter. The story behind the setting up, the sister and brother team who came from Paris to take on New York, and their subsequent success makes interesting reading. They were obviously substantially ahead of their time - moving to open restaurants in Las Vegas, well before the now common trend of well known restaurateurs opening up in the various casinos - but all that expansion ended when the brother died suddenly in his late 40's. His sister continues on as the owner of Le Bernardin, and has sensibly extended part ownership to the chef Eric Rupert, who has become a media figure in his own right.

The detail of kitchen service is fascinating for us, as we try to get our heads around how 40 chefs function in a small space. By comparison we have 4 chefs to do 65 covers. I'd love to see their wage bill!

And I had to smile when I read the list of 'Cardinal Sins' - the 129 things that new front of house employees are given and reminded to keep in mind at all times, in an ongoing effort to keep service constant and at a high standard. There was nothing on that list that I didn't agree with - meaning I guess that good service is good service, regardless of where you work!

We did a dinner recently with John Hancock from Trinity Hill - an old friend. John wanted to showcase some of the European grapes that they are growing in New Zealand, Arneis and Viognier and Tempranillo, so we took our cue from that and matched the wines with tapas style food, simple and flavoursome  and Europe based. Uncomplicated food, that belied the effort behind it.

In his introduction, John said some very gracious things about what Somerset meant to him, and talked alot about Ricks ability as a chef, which was lovely - and got me to thinking about the style of food that we do, which is described by Michael Guy in his latest restaurant guide  that I read today as 'classic'.

I guess we are classic in approach, and there are dishes on our menu that we will never be able to remove becos they are too entrenched, and some people eat the same thing every time they come to the restaurant, even if that is once a week. But we do like developing new ideas and extending our horizons, and the menu and the cookschool menus also reflect that process. Current in our world at the moment is this concept of molecular gastronomy, which people seem to feel a need to either rave about or revile, and for a long time, we've debated our approach. We've not had the opportunity to eat at either el bulli in Spain or Alinea in Chicago, maybe the 2 most famous restaurants of this type of approach, and before I comment conclusively on my sentiments, I would like to have experienced the very best to weigh my conclusions.

There is a forment which is pretty much media generated as I see it, over whether this style of eating is overdone, and people really prefer to eat safe and familiar, and this article  is a interesting argument pushing the strengths of chefs who want to challenge themselves and their diners.  If you click on the Marco Pierre White link, you go to a forum where he and Anthony Bourdain decried the rise of this style of multi course complicated food - but I suspect they were being contrary, purely to create a reaction.

We have the Alinea cookbook and also one that Thomas Keller has just written on sous vide style cooking, and I'm planning on reading both during our closed time, just to absorb some of the philosophy. And Rick and I will bat backwards and forth our attitude to this type of cutting edge cooking, and it will be interesting to see if some of the technique ends up reflected in some way on Somersets menu. Will keep you posted...

Increasingly these days, when I am looking for a recipe or need to research a food question, I find myself heading to the computor rather than to our extensive library of books and magazines. I can get lost for hours following various links around, and reading different peoples interpretations of certain things. Most of the stuff I read is food related, by virtue of what I do I guess, and I've sort of narrowed down the range of writers that I automatically turn too, to a few, who's opinions and writing styles I respect.

Was intrigued then to see in Dorie Greenspans recent blog a link to a Bon Appetit article that lists a number of food writers that that magazine rate. Some of my favourites were included, and when I get a bit of down time I may have a little squisy at the other ones that I'm not familiar with.

David Lebovitz, Doris Greenspan and Heidi Swanson are 3 I refer too regularly. David and Doris are both Americans who live a reasonable amount of each year in Paris - an aspect of their lives I quite freely admit to envying significantly! And Heidi is a vegetarian foodwriter who sends out a weekly email with a recipe, which I quite regularly print off and try, even though I am far from a vegetarian. She writes beautifully and takes exquisite photos.

Others that I rate but who aren't in the Bon Appetit lineup include Michael Ruhlman who is the writer behind all Thomas Kellers cookbooks. His blog is very wide ranging and I go to it for information rather than recipes - but did smile this week at the coincidence in a recent blog where he described the process he was going thru of breaking down a whole pig carcass. He co-authored a fantastic book 'Charcuterie', which we refer to alot, and is very much putting it into practise. We got an unexpected email from Sally at the Free Range Farm to say that our pig was ready for collecting from the Katikati butchers - which will mean a serious amount of work breaking it down over the weekend. And when I finish here, I will head straight for Michaels book to do a bit of research. We are hoping to get these pigs on a regular basis, and to upskill ourselves significantly in charcuterie. Ham, bacon, sausages - it is our intention to learn to do it all, but we will be taking baby steps initially, and just learning as we go.

It will be a great opportunity to run with specials in the restaurant though, of the very best organic pork, farmed right on our doorstep, up in the Kaimais. An idea I love.

Michael is also close to Anthony Bourdain who's book ' Kitchen Confidential' I read years ago, with increasing incredulousness at the extremes of restaurant conditions and people that he described. We had breakfast this week with Diane Ponzio, our favouritest New Yorker, and she is adamant that while she was a struggling muso working tables she worked with some of the people that he describes in the book, so maybe it isn't quite as much a fiction as I thought. He has gone onto increased noteriety thru his various TV shows, and I just enjoy his jaded, erudite take on stuff. He's cynical and nasty, but also genuinely passionate about food and people, and I think its a much more stimulating combination then some of these plastic presenters who just keep pontificating about how absolutely fabulous everything is at the top of their voices. I find them strident and trite.

Lunch service is not far off starting, so need to head over to the restaurant - with 'Charcuterie' tucked under my arm! The phones go beserk this time of year with people wanting to order vouchers, and making enquiries about cookschools and product, and its much easier if I'm there to deal with that and leave the staff to get on with the tables.

I am currently writing the electronic letter for December,  which I'll send out shortly, something I seldom do in one hit. Normally I need a couple of drafts and a bit of time in between, just to ponder what I've written. At one of my 'inbetween stages', I watched this video that a friend sent me of his son Shane  - who once upon a time worked for us - and who now  runs a trout guiding operation in Taupo. I think he prefers it to cooking...and I have to say it looks pretty magical to me!

The below was sent to me by a friend, and elicited a chuckle , becos in these overtly politically correct days when we try to please everyone and end up pleasing no-one, I often ponder the simplicity of a benign dictatorship...

 
  CHRISTMAS PARTY
 
 FROM: Pauline, Human Resources Director
 TO: All Employees
 DATE: 1st November 2008
 RE: Christmas Party
 I'm happy to inform you that the company Christmas Party will take place on December 23rd, starting at noon in the private function room at the Grill House. There will be a cash bar and plenty of drinks! We'll have a small band playing traditional carols...please feel free to sing along. And don't be surprised if the MD shows up dressed as Santa Claus! A Christmas tree will be lit at 1.00 p.m. Exchange of gifts among employees can be done at that time; however, no gift should be over £10.00 to make the giving of gifts easy for everyone's pockets. This gathering is only for employees! The MD will make a special announcement at the Party.
 Merry Christmas to you and your Family.
 Pauline
 ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---
 FROM: Pauline, Human Resources Director
 TO: All Employees
 DATE: 2nd November 2008
 RE: Holiday Party
 In no way was yesterday's memo intended to exclude our Jewish employees. We recognize that Chanukah is an important holiday, which often coincides with Christmas, though unfortunately not this year. However, from now on we're calling it our 'Holiday Party'. The same policy applies to any other employees who are not Christians. There will be no Christmas tree or Christmas carols sung. We will have other types of music for your enjoyment.
 Happy now?
 Happy Holidays to you and your family.
 Pauline.
 ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---
 FROM; Pauline, Human Resources Director
 TO: All Employees
 DATE: 6th November 2008
 RE: Holiday Party
 Regarding the note I received from a member of Alcoholics Anonymous requesting a non-drinking table...you didn't sign your name. I'm happy to accommodate this request, but if I put a sign on a table that reads, "AA Only", you wouldn't be anonymous anymore!!!! How am I supposed to handle this? Somebody? Forget about the gift exchange, no gift exchange allowed now since the Union Officials feel that £10.00 is too much money and Management believe £10.00 is a little cheap. NO GIFT EXCHANGE WILL BE ALLOWED.
 Pauline.
 ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---
 
 
 
 FROM: Pauline, Human Resources Director
 TO: All Employees
 DATE: 7th November 2008
 RE: Holiday Party
 What a diverse group we are! I had no idea that December 20th begins the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, which forbids eating and drinking during daylight hours. There goes the party! Seriously, we can appreciate how a luncheon at this time of year does not accommodate our Muslim employees' beliefs, perhaps the Grill House can hold off on serving your meal until the end of the party - or else package everything up for you to take home in a little foil doggy bag. Will that work? Meanwhile, I've arranged for members of Weight Watchers to sit farthest from the dessert buffet and pregnant women will get the table closest to the toilets, Gays are allowed to sit with each other, Lesbians do not have to sit with gay men, each will have their own table. Yes, there will be flower arrangements for the gay men's table too. To the person asking permission to cross dress - no cross dressing allowed. We will have booster seats for short people. Low fat food will be available for those on a diet. We cannot control the salt used in the food we suggest those people with high blood pressure taste the food first. There will be fresh fruits as dessert for Diabetics; the restaurant cannot supply "No Sugar" desserts. Sorry! Did I miss anything?!?! ?!?!?!
 Pauline.
 ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---
 FROM: Pauline, Human Resources Director
 TO: All F****** Employees
 DATE: 8 November 2008
 RE: The F******* Holiday Party.
 Vegetarian pricks I've had it with you people !!! We're going to keep this party at the Grill House whether you like it or not, so you can sit quietly at the table furthest from the "grill of death", as you so quaintly put it, you'll get your f****** salad bar, including organic tomatoes, But you know tomatoes have feelings too, They scream when you slice them. I've heard them scream. I'm hearing the scream right NOW!!
 I hope you all have a rotten holiday, drink drive and die.
 The Bitch from HELL!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!! !
 ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---
 FROM: John, Acting Human Resources Director
 TO: All Employees
 DATE: 9th November 2008
 RE: Pauline Lewis and Holiday Party
 I'm sure I speak for all of us in wishing Pauline a speedy recovery, and I'll continue to forward your cards to her. In the meantime, the Management has decided to cancel our Holiday Party and instead, give everyone the afternoon of the 23rd December off with full pay.
 John

A book I've meant to read for years, having heard so much about it. Based in Mexico is tells the story of one womans life as woven around her ability to cook. Mystical and magical, but with the very modern thread of people taking responsibility for their own lives running through it. I thought it was beautiful, and cried as you do ( or at least I do!) when you read something that plucks at the heart strings.

A friend had dropt her copy into me, becos we'd been discussing it in a cookschool, and I wasn't at all surprised to see the inscription written in the book by whoever had given it to her saying that it was very appropriate for her becos she understood the power and passion of good food. I couldn't have put it more aptly myself.

We were to go on a trip to Mexico earlier this year, which didn't get underway, and at the time I felt reasonably OK about that becos we had so much else going on in our lives, that I took the fact the trip didn't happen as a sign that it wasn't meant to be.

However, reading this book and the intricacies of the food descriptions has certainly got me to pondering about how great it would be to go and experience some of these amazing flavours. We have good contacts there- people who've lived in the region for many years, so I haven't given away the idea entirely. Its an idea who's time will come.